Across the Atlantic

Smoked Mackerel, Rhubarb and Angelica Recipe

Serves 4 · about 2 h · standard kitchen equipment

Born from an encounter between Québec and Modena, this dish celebrates the dialogue between two territories deeply attached to their culinary heritage. The delicately smoked mackerel evokes the richness of the cold waters of the Saint Lawrence, while the rhubarb (worked as a water, a gel, and lightly grilled) brings an acidity that balances the whole. Angelica, lovage, and dulse add a vegetal, briny freshness. This creation pairs emblematic Québec products with a culinary approach inspired by Modena, with particular attention to the precision of flavours, the balance of textures, and respect for the produce.

Smoked Mackerel, Rhubarb and Angelica

Serves 4

Ingredients

Smocked maquerel

· 2 fine mackerel fillets (350–400 g)

· 40 g coarse salt

· 40 g sugar

· pepper

· a few lemon balm and lovage leaves, finely chopped

· citrus wood chips, or a handful of black tea

· ice

· lemon zest for smoking

Rhubarb Water

· 400 g rhubarb

· 40 g sugar

Poached Angelica

· 200 g angelica stems

· 400 g water

· 100 g sugar

Rhubarb Gel

· 400 g rhubarb

· 2.4 g agar-agar

Grilled Rhubarb

· 2–3 rhubarb stalks

· 100 ml fresh rhubarb juice

Dulse Chimichurri

· 60 g fresh dulse (or rehydrated)

· lovage

· a few rounds of poached angelica

· Champagne vinegar

· salt

Lovage Oil

· 100 g lovage

· 80 g grapeseed oil.

Preparation

1. Smocked Mackerel (home-smoked)

· Remove the bones. Cover the fillets with the salt/sugar/pepper/herb mix and chill for 30 min. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

· Home smoking: line a casserole (or wok) with foil, add the wood chips (or the tea-rice-zest mix), set a rack inside and cover. Heat until it smokes, add the fillets, cover and smoke over low heat for 8–10 min (cold/warm smoking). Set aside.

· Just before plating, crisp the skin with a blowtorch (or a few seconds under the oven grill). Slice thinly.

2. Rhubarb Water

· Cut the rhubarb into pieces, combine with the sugar in a covered container and cook in a bain-marie for 1 h.

· Strain without pressing to obtain a very clear water. Keep chilled.

3. Poached Angelica

· Make a light syrup with the water and sugar.

· Gently poach the peeled stems for 2–3 min, then transfer immediately to an ice bath.

· Drain and cut into thin rounds.

4. Rhubarb Gel

· Blend the rhubarb and strain through cheesecloth to obtain about 120 g of juice.

· Add the agar, boil for 1 min, pour onto a plate and let it set in the fridge.

· Blend into a smooth gel and transfer to a piping bag.

5. Grilled Rhubarb

· Char the stalks on a very hot pan or plancha.

· Transfer them immediately to the rhubarb juice, cover with cling film touching the surface, marinate for 15 min, then cool.

· Cut into pieces.

6. Dulse Chimichurri

· Rinse and finely chop the dulse.

· Add chopped lovage, the angelica and a dash of vinegar.

· Adjust the seasoning — it should be fresh, briny and lightly tangy.

7. Lovage Oil

· Blend, then heat to 80 °C for 8 min.

· Strain through cheesecloth and cool immediately over ice to keep the vibrant green colour.

8. Plating

A few dots of rhubarb gel, the sliced mackerel with crisp skin, the grilled rhubarb, the angelica rounds, the dulse chimichurri, a drizzle of lovage oil and a few drops of rhubarb water.